Re: Marrakesh March Madness! Posted: Fri February 13, 2009 03:55 PM UTC
Hi Nick, I'll answer these as best I can (I'll reply to your e-mail questions too)
The Souk - I can't remember the streets around the souk being particularly uneven or wet (much of the area is covered)They also get very crowded - this is one of the main shopping areas for locals and visiting Moroccans as well as tourists, so you can expect to get jostled about a bit- it's very much a working area, with men running by pushing and pulling wagons and trollies,or carrying huge bundles and even donkeys laden with goods can be seen. It's an interesting place, with each of the different areas allocated to selling specific goods- ie the carpet souk, the leather souk, gold, shoes, spices, clothing etc.
I quite liked the smaller souk near the Baadi Palace - less crowded and still with a good atmosphere.
I don't think that you need a guide, unless you're hoping to find somewhere specific.
Night life - I've not been to any of the clubs, but I spent a night at Chez Ali, which was quite good fun. Traditional singers, musicians and dancers, a traditional meal eaten in a canopied 'tent' followed by Fantasia - a re-enactment of this form of entertainment, where the highlight is the skills of the horsemen, as they perform acrobatics etc while riding one or even 2 horses. This ends with the riders lining up, thundering down the arena, and firing a volley of rifle shots, before the evening ends with a firework display. Yes, it's a tourist event, but it's well organised and has been running for over 25 years.
Apart from the nights I've spent in DEF square, I enjoy the restaurants and bars in Gueliz, which is the French Quarter. Here you can enjoy a cocktail or nice wine. (alcohol isn't so easily available around DEF)
Djemma El Fnaa- I've enjoyed my nights spent in this square, listening to the musicians and story tellers etc. I've spent most of this time by myself and have felt quite safe. The spectacle of this square, is mainly for the locals - even if you have some understanding of Moroccan Arabic/ Berber, it's still difficult to understand the storytellers.
There are some dubious looking characters hanging around, but I've not felt threatened. Undoubtedly there are drug dealers and prostitutes (male and female), but it's likely that they are more interested in the locals than tourists.
The King of Morocco is interested in bringing more tourists to his country, so there has been a clamping down of those hassling visitors etc.
As always,in crowds, keep your wallet etc safely hidden. I tend to wear combat style trousers with zip pockets, with loose change handy for tips for musicians, beggars etc.(so I don't have to display where my purse is, or reveal how much money I'm carrying.
I enjoy eating at the stalls in Djemma el Fnaa. I usually start with a pot of mint tea at one of the cafes overlooking the square, for a grand stand view. Then find where I want to eat.
In winter time, I finish the night with a glass of hunja (a hot spicy drink)served with a gingerbread type cake - just costs a few Dh, but warms you up
Hope this is of some help
Best Wishes,
Sue
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