Re: Trip through Central Asia in summer 2009 Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 03:11 PM UTC
Hello all,
Road kyrgystan:
On the kyrgystan side unpaved until 5km before the border. Mostly quite ok but can be muddy just before Ikestam Pass after heavy rain. Chinese side very good road.
Accomodation:
Homestays in Sary Tash, then camping. The kyrgystan border post is just one big junkyard. Better camp before. The border opens at 9:00 (kyrgystan time).
In China there are constantly houses from Km 260 onward. Better camp before.
Eating:
In Sary Tash there are little shops. On the chinese side there are many small places. Money changing possible at the border but bat rates.
Tajikistan...
Season
Best is june-september. Warm during daytime and not too cold at night.
Map
There is a very good map (1:500'000) of Markus Hauser (www.geckomaps.com). You ca buy it in Murghab and Dushanbe.
Supplies
Shopping facilities in Khorog (good), Murghab (limited) and Sary Tash (limited). Otherwise very little!
Accomodation
There are homestays in many little places (in private houses or yurts) organised by ACTED like Bulunkul, Alichur, Murghab, Karakul (about 5$ for accomodation, 5$ for 3 meals). Deserves to be supported! Camping always possible.
Road
The Pamir Highway itself is mostly paved. Only just over the passes there are some unpaved parts. All sidetrips are very rough roads (sand, washboard). The climbs are usually long and steep only for the very last part. The most difficult part of the Pamir Highway is getting there at all... (see below)
Approach:
Comming from Dushanbe there are two possible roads that lead to Kalaikhum:
1.) Khaburabot pass (3252m):
The first 20km after Dushanbe are a very good road. The next 140km to the foot of the pass there is only little pavement and it is a demanding up and down. The climb to the pass is at first rough but get better. The downhill on the other side to Kalaikhum is good (paved from 2000m).
2.) via Kulyab: (not cycled myself)
The road from Dushanbe to Kulyab is supposed to be quite good. From there you follow the Paynj river to Kalaikhum. This part is currently under construction.
Kalaikhum to Khorog
Here you will follow the Paynj river. Mostly paved and quite ok road. Note: the are still landmines along this route..
What about visas, looking through different tips and topics, we found out that different people said different things. One said that it was diffucult, others that it was easy.We decided to get our visas in advance, cos we did not want to risk and had any problems during our cycling tour on the customs. We ordered LOIs for Kyrgystan,Kazakhstan,Tajikistan, Mongolia and Azerbaijan (countries we planed to visit) by 12 euros per person through http://www.travelazerbaijan.land.ru/ and got our visas in advance in our home country.
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