Cairo Travel Forum

Hi you guys,
I am thinking about a city visit in Cairo in the end of this year. Except the normal information I do not know too much on Cairo (yet) - except those things you get by TV documentations once in a while. I would love to get in contact with someone(s) who would like to tell me some things about life and what's going on in Cairo. I am very much interested in architecture, art and culture. When travelling I love to mix up with the people rather than heading from one tourist highlight to the next.
Which are nice parts in town that you like the most? Where do you like go for a good meal? Who are your favorite Egyptian poets, writers, artist, architects, musicians? What is "in" in Cairo? What do I have to do and where to go to get a good feeling of Cairo?
I just started a book of Nagib Machfus about the "Midaq lane" cause I think it's nice to get into a place by reading (not just travel guides...). What are your fave books or (maybe contemporary)writers (dealing or playing in Cairo)?
I am very much into architecture - so I am pleased on any hints - modern or historical.
Shukran;-)
Chris.

How long are you staying in Cairo? I would suggest to see other parts of Egypt as well as Cairo can be very exhausting and Egypt has more to offer than just staying in Cairo.

Anyway, there are many places to visit and also everyday there are concerts and things to do in the evening. May be if you narrow down your question, would be able to answer you better.

Mongy

Hi Mongy, thanks for your answer,
I am not sure yet about any details because I jsut started research to fix the trip. My friend and me we are talking for years that we want to do visit Cairo (and Egypt)... I guess we will stay about one week in Cairo. If our budget is fine we also want to travel around a little. We want to see the historic quarters, of course the pyramids, the great egyptian museum, bazars, the Al Azhar Park - so I guess these are already four, five days. Maybe I want to visit one or two architecture practices that I was in contact with for some research work. My friend he is a music lover - open for everything, traditional, classic, modern. So if you know some good places for this or if you have good links to websites, nice restaurants, good views on the city, an interesting museum that I would not think of, maybe some good art places... Whatever.
And thanks again,
Chris.

Skip Al Azhar Park - it is nothing more than a green area built on top of a former garbage dump - there is a restaurant there but nothing any better than any other restuarant. It is a park that costs a few EL to get in thus keeping the less than fortunate out. It does provide a view of the city but you can get better from many other locations. Instead, spend this time exploring Islamic Cairo (which includes Khan Al Khalili but much much more as well.) This will provide you with architecture, culture, local people, etc...
Cross over into the Al Ghouri Complex - this provides you with the local shopping experience as well as discovering mosques, the ancient wall that once surrounded the city and an entrance into further exploration. You will go through Bab Zaweyla (a very distinct ancient gate) and into the tent makers bazaar - keep going and you will completely leave the tourists behind and experience daily life in one of the busiest (and most densely populated) sections of the city.

I would not skip el Azhar park, a proper information of this place gives a whole different perspective to it. In addition to be able to have a fantastic view on Islamic cairo and it is good to go in specific times when there is less people. Also if you are into photography this is a good place to take photos of the Islamic Cairo.

Azhar park was a dump place for Cairo since 300 A.D. and the Agh Khan foundation managed to dig out this 'historical' garbage few years ago and making a socillay responsible park, having two seperate fees from both gates of the park; cheaper from El Darb El Ahmar which is a poor area and average price from the high way where cars come from.

Also the remainder of the wall of Cairo was found and is being renovated, together with sustainable and participatory renovation of the poor and historic area of El Darb El Ahmer, with creation of income generating activities through the conservation work. The artisanal work of Darb El Ahmer has frequent exhibitions in el Azhar Park. They are also involved in the mainatenance of the park.

Adding to that, in the historic garbage there were ornment and historical pieces of art that were used in the renovated restaurants.

Moreover the botanical garden has several endangered species of the arid and semi arid regions of North and East Africa that we are proud to conserv.

I think Chris you and your friend might want to always have a deeper look at the attractions in Egypt because there are many things that have deep meanings and significance that sometimes are not evident with just a glimpse on the surface.

I will send you more stuff as this is something close to my work (Natural and Cultural conservation), to explore the unbeaten path of the country. Just now I have to get back to work and will send you more later, and I am sure your BF and you will have a good experience here.

I agree with Mongy! We visited Al Azhar Park last Februari and utterly loved it! It is a haven of peace and tranquility in the otherwise crazy living metropole of Cairo.

Chris,

I love Naguib Mahfouz as well. Have read several books of him. They all make me kind of sad but they do express the Egyptian soul. As far as I have learned to know it........

My favourite one is Bidaya wa Hihaya, or Beginning and End as they translated it in the Dutch version.
Now I am reading "Khul-Khaal". It is a book about 5 Egyptian women telling their stories. I bought it in Egypt last Februari. Very impressive!

In your research of Cairo and Egypt I would like to advise you to go to the Touregypt Website: www.touregypt.net

A year ago we took a walk from the Citadel to the Khan el Khalili. They told us it was possible to go through the Lower Gate of the Citadel that ends up in front of Al Rafai and Sultan Hassan Mosque. Just next on the right to those Mosques you can enter a street that leads you to the Khan el Khalili and will take you through Old Islamic Cairo. When we were there the Lower Gate of the Citadel was closed so we needed to go around the Citadel into the direction of Al Azhar Park. We ended up at the entrance of the City of the Dead. The Policeman there advised us not to go that way, but there was an Egyptian man, selling candy, who said: NO PROBLEM! He took us down there and it was a real experience.

If you are interested in Islamic architecture you shouldn't miss the Gayer Anderson Museum. It is adjusted to the Ibn Tulun Mosque. The oldest Mosque in Cairo with a very unique Minaret, but, sad to say, quite rude restored.
The Gayer Anderson is well worth a visit. The house was originally 3 old Islamic houses now turned into one that was given by the Egyptian governement to an English Army docter, a collector of Middle Eastern art and artefacts, on the condition that his collection would stay in Egypt. It is a higgledy piggledy house and collection, but very charming.

Hi Dora and Mongy,
thank you very much for your very helpful tips. I appreciate them very much;-) I once had to do some research on the park from an architecture point of view. It seemed to be very a good recreation solution for a city that is that dense populated. But as far as I know, it is pretty a big thing in Cairo from a social point as well as from the city planning point of view. I knew it was a dump but the conservation aspect is new to me. This would be something especially for my friend. I definately would be interesting in further info, if it's not that much effort to you. Would be great;-) I love to understand the ideas behind concepts, cities, etc. Sometimes they are not that obvious. But it is also good to see how different impressions are. It's the same with buildings - some love a new project - others say how could anybody do something like that. And it is good like that because then new thing does something with people.
Your book ideas are great, too, Dora, and the route and museum tip... I will do some research in this direction - and definatly need a map to see where all the things are and how to combine things. Maybe I find enought enough time to read more. The other book you recommended was it more contemporary?
I am really astonished about Machfus book Midaq Lane for it opens a new view that I did not expect. Very open-minded and brave to describe the people with all their habits, their weakness, desperation and hopes...
Thanks again,
Chris.

Hi Dora and Mongy,
thank you very much for your very helpful tips. I appreciate them very much;-) I once had to do some research on the park from an architecture point of view. It seemed to be very a good recreation solution for a city that is that dense populated. But as far as I know, it is pretty a big thing in Cairo from a social point as well as from the city planning point of view. I knew it was a dump but the conservation aspect is new to me. This would be something especially for my friend. I definately would be interesting in further info, if it's not that much effort to you. Would be great;-) I love to understand the ideas behind concepts, cities, etc. Sometimes they are not that obvious. But it is also good to see how different impressions are. It's the same with buildings - some love a new project - others say how could anybody do something like that. And it is good like that because then new thing does something with people.
Your book ideas are great, too, Dora, and the route and museum tip... I will do some research in this direction - and definatly need a map to see where all the things are and how to combine things. Maybe I find enought enough time to read more. The other book you recommended was it more contemporary?
I am really astonished about Machfus book Midaq Lane for it opens a new view that I did not expect. Very open-minded and brave to describe the people with all their habits, their weakness, desperation and hopes...
Thanks again,
Chris.

now my answer appears two times. don't know how i did that... ;-?

Is your friend interested in Conservation? I can help a lot with that, this is what I work for:) Can give you some tips on National Parks in Egypt (24 parks) and the conservation spots.

Regards
Mongy

Well, what is contemporary???? I think it means something different in Egypt than it does in the West.

This book was written in the middle Seventies, but still very current. Egyptian society has deep roots in the past and will not change as fast as our societies are going.
In Cairo people will appear very modern but when inside the home and with the family old morals and habits are very much alive. This book "Khul Khaal" will explain how much the individual is depending on the family. When a woman is without father, brothers, uncles, nephews, cousins that will look after her, she is more than lost.
The book also shows how strong the women are and how inventive to change their fate.

A useful book is the novel "The Yacoubian building", published in 2006, and which gives a very good insight on today's Egyptian society.

As has been said, walking for hours and hours in Islamic Cairo, its colourful streets and its architectural marvels is a must. Going up the minarets of old mosques and fortified doors is great. The Khan Al Khalili is a great place once it's night, when all package tourists have left and Egyptian families flood the place.

For culture, try to find the small monthly guide "The crock", it gives a detailed agenda of all cultural events.

As stupid as it may seem, take the time to read a guidebook. They usually give a lot of details of all you can see in Cairo. This city is amazing, you could spend one year there and still have things to see. Make sure you don't restraint yourself to the usual fat tourist circuit (Giza-museum-Saqqara-Citadel).