Zakopane Travel Forum

Hello everyone,

I am planning to visit Zakopane for the third time in early July. My friend and I are cycling from Prague down to Austria and the Danube, through Vienna and Bratislava, into Hungary and up then up through the lower Slovakian Tatras.

When we get to Poland we would like to climb Rysy and also to traverse the Eagle Ridge (Orla Perc). I have done both but my friend is looking forward to the experience.

What we plan to do is to cycle from Slovakia to Morskie Oko, stay overnight in the mountain hut, climb Rysy and then cycle to Zakopane to spend the night there.

The following morning we would like to get an early start and catch the first cable car of the day. Does anyone know what time that will be? (Early July) Can anyone please give me a rough time to complete the ridge and descend back to Zakopane from Wlk. Woloszyn via Gasienicowa and Dolina Jaworzynka?

Alternatively we could cycle from Slovakia straight to Zakopane,stay the night, catch the cable car up to do the Eagle Ridge and then spend the night at Morskie Oko. Climb Rysy the next day and either walk back to Zakopane or use public transport from Morskie Oko.

Will the Mountain Hut at Morskie Oko be busy in early July? When are the Polish school holidays?

Can anyone recommend accommodation in Zakopane?

Any advise on our itinerary will be most welcome.

Thank you in advance

Regards
Coddy.

Hi I was staying in great, inexpensive apartment right in the hearth of Zakopane in 2005. It was fantastic location for doing day trips and to hang out at night in local restaurants.
See my Zakopane acomodation for details.

I like your post.
Few comments:
1.Cycling to Morskie Oko is against the rule due to heavy pedestrian trafic on this road.It’s not save.The guards will probably catch you.
2.Check PKL Polskie koleje Linowe web page (probably also in English).I guess from 6 a.m.
3.I would say roughly 8 hours (the legal truck is finished at Krzyzne)
4.Morskie Oko hut is always busy.Specially in time of school holidays (from 21.06).There are few natural stone refugees in this area-as an adventure. However sleeping outside mountain huts in Tatry is not legal (except emergency cases –here is the trick).But in order to avoid a fine everyone should use a commone sense.
Slovakian Tatry are less crowded.

Thanks Jawnuta. Looks good although we'd be looking more at a hotel room rather than an apartment as we would be staying on the 4th July and then spend another night on the 8th July.

We are hoping to be able to leave the bikes at the accommodation while we are up in the mountains.

Thanks for the advice, 68maciek. Very useful and I've been through it with my friend this evening.

Due to your input, Plan B appears to be:

4th July: arrive Zakopane and stay the night
5th July: 6am Cable Car, Orla Perc, to Przedni Staw Polski or Morskie Oko
6th July: Morskie Oko to Popradske pleso or Strbske Pleso (via Rysy)
7th July: Popradske pleso or Strbske Pleso to Zakopane (via Hlinska Dolina/Kobylia Dolina and Kasprowy Wierch)
8th July: Zakopane to Krakow by bike staying overnight in Krakow before flying home.

We just need to be able to find accommodation in Zakopane for the nights of the 4th and 7th July and book the mountain huts if possible. We are hoping we can leave the bikes at the accommodation in Zakopane while we are in the mountains.

Was I right with the cable car at 6 a.m. (I won 1000 queeds-hahaha)?

My comments to your planB:

I see that you want to eat a big pie in a very short time.
I’m not sure if everything is possible due to physical human limits (but I measure to my shape hahaha- so I may be wrong).
For instance: the second day: let’s count (very roughly and without heavy rucksacks) 8-10 hours for Orla Perc 2 hours to Piec Stawow.And you need 2 hours more to Morskie Oko.It seems to be not so realistic for me.So it makes the 3-rd day a bit unrealistic as well.

I would leave bikes in Zakopane (just ask staff in any pension/hotel- I guess for some money).The closer to Kuznice the better- if you want to use the cable car. An accommodation in Kalatowki (simple hotel type) hut could be an option –due to quite scenic location, access by bike and relatively quick access to the car station (depends on your preferences).

4-th day: mind you that states border crossing in Tatry national parks is allowed ( I mean officially hahaha) only in certain places- at the moment it’s only Rysy.

5-th day. I avoid Zakopane-Krakow (47 and E77) road even by car as much as possible.Alternative roads are not much longer but much nicer due to traffic (but it’s hard to avoid this road at all distance).

To make bigger mess:
If you are riding to Tatry from western side you will miss great, brave Rohace ridge (hiking) in Zapadne Tatry.

There is also a quite good road for bike to Krakow via Chyzne or Lipnica from this side of Tatry or to Zakopane via Chocholow or Witów as well.


Here are all roads allowed by bikes in Polish Tatry park based on:
http://www.podhale.z-ne.pl/s,menu,pol,podhale,1695,0,1702,na_terenie_tpn.html

a.To Dolina Chocholowska hut
b.To Kalatowki hut- it’s more like a simple hotel than proper atmosphere ‘schronisko’ (probably you can leave bikes here upon an agreement)
c.To (pretty crowded) Dolina Gąsienicowa hut (via Dolina Suchej Wody)
Droga pod Reglami between Siwa Polana and Bystre

and the link to Slovakian park info:
http://www.tanap.org/en/cycling-tracks.php

If you need more details let me know.

Hi Maciek,

Thanks for all that.

We've been firming up our itinerary and booking the accommodation. Considering your comments on the timescales involved, this is what we've come up with.

4th July: arrive Zakopane and stay the night at the Stara Polona Hostel (booked)
5th July: 7am Cable Car ( 1st one :-) ), Orla Perc, to Przedni Stawow Mountain Hut (still needs to be booked)
6th July: Przedni Stawow to Chata pod Rysmi (via Rysy)(booked)
7th July: Chata pod Rysmi to Zakopane (via Hlinska Dolina/Kobylia Dolina and Kasprowy Wierch)staying again at Stara Polona Hostel to collect the bikes.(booked)
8th July: Zakopane to Krakow by bike or bus staying overnight in Krakow before flying home.

We just need to book the Przedni Stawow Mountain Hut. My friend phoned asking if they spoke english but the man who answered put the phone down on him. We are trying to book online now.

The Zakopane to Krakow part of the trip. We will probably now use the bus so that we can spend more time in Krakow before flying back home. If we do cycle it, we'll avoid the main Zakopane to Krakow road. I've been along there on the bus a few times and as you say, it's mega busy..!!

How does that look? :-)

Sounds demanding but possible.There are still talks about other than Rysy border crossing points.The agreement should be be reach before the season starts.

The rule for Piec Stawow hut is that even if there is no space in the rooms you can sleep on the floor in dining room without reservation.

Ha haa..!! The dining room floor at the Piec Stawow.... that is where I slept last time. :-)

It has some specific charm hasn't it? hahaha.

Great itinerary! Good luck with your trip, hope you'll have nice weather.

Thanks betako3.

Just a week until lift off now and really looking forward to it.We've managed to get the Piec Stawow hut booked so it is all systems go..!!

The Piec Stawow floor is pure luxury compared with similar experiences in the Mt Blanc Gouter hut, maciek. :-)

Hi Coddy, I've just clicked on your page keen to read about your Mt Blanc experience and I'm really disappointed that you haven't written a single word about your travels! Pity. It sounds like you've done and seen a lot of interesting things you could share with us.
P.S. I'm going to Dolina 5 Stawow at the end of July, made the reservation already in April and still got a bed in a dorm though I was hoping for something more private. But I suppose I should be glad I'll avoid the floor :)

Hi Beata,

I'll consider myself well and truly told off..!! :-) "I must do better" x10

To be honest I look to the future too much and really should make an effort to put past trips on record for my benefit as well as reference and interest for others.

I've just been looking through all your contributions. You did well up on the Orla Perc. Are you going to finish it off in July? I like the photo of those cheeky little birds.

Mt Blanc. I've been up there twice. The 1st time was a solo effort and the second trip the more enjoyable experience when I went up with my friends. We started from Chamonix and summited without the use of any form of cable car,ski lift, train etc which is normally used to gain valuable height.

I'll have to post some piccys up soon but the route was:

Day 1 : Chamonix to the Montenvers Hotel overlooking the Mer de Glace (Crevasse rescue training on the Mer de Glace)

Day 2: Travel up the Mer de Glace and stay at the Requin hut.(a family of friendly Marmots lived behind the hut)

Day 3: Requin hut climbing to the Valley Blanche to the Cosmiques hut.

Day 4: Take the 3 monts route to the summit, crossing Tacul, Maudit and onwards to Mt Blanc. Descent by the Gouter route passing Nid d'Aigle train station and dropping down into the Chamonix valley at Les Houches. Walk up the valley to Chamonix for a fair few beers and chips and dips at Poco Locos..!! :-)

I first visited Poland in 1992 and stayed at Zakopane.I walked up to Kasprowy Wierch turning right along the ridge before taking a path back down to Zakopane. It was snow covered up there and it was fantastic to see the footprints of different wild animals. The ridge had a trail of blood than ran for a long way. No doubt from a wild animal. I saw what might have been a pack of wolves running along the valley side over the border and it was interesting to see a soldier complete with rifle.

Zakopane had changed quite a lot when I next visited a few years ago. My friends and I arrived by coach from Krakow and headed straight up to Kasprowy Wierch and left towards the Orla Perc. A very chilly night was spent on the ridge just past Swinica before we finished the ridge off the next day and spent the night on the floor at the Piec Stawow.

The next day was a stroll around to Morskie Oko. The place was packed with day visitors but it was very quiet at night and we were lucky to get room 9 which overlooked the lake. We climbed Rysy the next day along with an Italian lad who was keen for us to guide him up. We parted company at the summit was was cold and trying to snow. We carried on and spent the night at Strbske Pleso.

The next day we decided to walk up Krivan before spending another night at Strbske Pleso. We then walked back to Zakopane in a day from Tri Studnicky on the 537 road. The first part of the walk went fine until we came across a fallen forest of trees which was quite a funny experience as we crossed and dropped into Koprova Dolina. We couldn't see the path and tried to balance along the fallen tree trunks. Our legs were covered in blood on reaching the Dolina. :-) We walked up Koprova, up the Kobylia Dolina pathand walked along the side of the Ticha Dolina upper valley to Kasprowy Wierch. The intention was to get the cable car down but the queue was massive with everyong jumping the queue so the consensus was let's get out of here. We ended up runing down and catching the bus to Krakow where we spent a few days chilling out before returning to the UK.

I've always said I would like to do the Orla Perc again. We cycled from Krakow to Salzburg last year but didn't get the chance but I've made sure this year. Can't wait..!! I love Poland, I love the Polish people (my best friend at primary school was polish) and I love the Tatras. I just hope it's not too busy at this time of the year.

There..... I've made a start..!! Better get packing my panniers now. :-)

:) haha, that's about the first time my telling somebody off has had such a great possitive and immediate effect! :) thank you :) I'm impressed both by the content, and by the fact that you cared to take up the challenge :) though I must say that what you've written so far awakes more curiosity and I won't be fully satisfied unless you provide a full account of your adventures complete with pictures, stories, anecdotes, details of all sorts... Am I taking it too far? :) Seriously, your last post's been an interesting read, and I hope you'll start putting some stuff on your page. I'm sure a lot of people would appreciate it.

I've just got back from Prague - hot, beautiful but twice as expensive as it was in January when I visited for the first time - a pint of beer in the vicinity of the Old Town Square jumped from about 30Kr to 60 and more. I was hoping to see some caves in Morawski Kras as well but they mixed things up with our reservation and we ended up visiting small Katerinska cave instead of Punkevni, guided by a Czech we didn't understand at all... Not a very enjoyable experience.

Now I'm looking forward to the end of July, can't wait to see the Tatras again, and yes, I'm going to finish off Orla Perc and climb Rysy, though I'm a little anxious about my shoes. I've bought 2 pairs of walking shoes these last 3 months and both have been a mistake :( It'll have to be sneakers, I guess :(

I do hope to read something about that cycling tour of yours when you get back, not only about destinations but how you go about organising such a thing - I guess VT is not the only source?:) Hope everything will go smoothly, I will keep my fingers crossed :)

Orla Perc....Just be careful if you have wet and windy weather, Beata.I think we were the only ones who traversed on the day we went along the ridge. Three Polish blokes from Warsaw went as far as Zawrat before dropping down. The route was one way between Zawrat and Kozi Wierch. The visibility was very poor and it rained all day long. Those conditions made it quite slippy. We were both wearing Scarpa Enigma XCR walking shoes.

The 3 days in the Tatras went well.

Orla Perc day: We got up at 5am, arrived at Kucnice at 6:30am, caught the cable car at 7am (28 zloty). We got going at 7:40 am and reached the end of the ridge in 9 hrs and 10 minutes. The rain and poor visibility was endured the length of the ridge and only relented after we had finished the ridge and began to drop down. A steep drop down to Piec Stawow where we found our room had been given away as we had failed to arrive by 5pm. This was despite us contacting the hut the week before to say we would probably be arriving between 7-8pm and gaining reassurances that our rooms would be reserved.We were told that the floor was available (yet again):-)and they would chuck us a couple of blankets to make our stay as comfortable as possible. We didn't kick up a fuss as it wouldn't have achieved anything. That might have worked to our advantage as the nice lady at reception found us in the dining room to inform us that she had managed to secure a room from a "no show". She was clearly pleased to witness our delight and we were clearly over the moon to find our oasis. We managed to hang our gear out to dry. There were half a dozen blokes kipping in the corridor outside our room. The accommodation problem was compounded by the fact that the telephone line was out of action to the hut which made any efforts to contact the hut the evening before impossible. 10 out of 10 to the nice lass at reception. Service with a smile.

2nd Day: Stawow to Pod Rysmi via Rsys.

The weather was a lot better on the second day. Sunny intervals with the cloud base above the summit of Rsys. We set off at 9:15am, traversed on an easy path over to Morskie Oko where we enjoyed the company of many other tourists. After snapping a few photos we cracked on at 11:35am, continued past the second lake and up to the summmit of Rsys. There were quite a lot of other walkers going up and although not really needed, the majority resorted to the use of the chains in the upper section to help them up. There was one lady who passed us on her way down who looked like she was dressed for the catwalk. Loads of make up on, high heel black boots to her knees and tight fitting jeans. Quite a sight..!! :-) Reaching the summit at 3:15pm, we enjoyed a photo session by unfurling the Fleetwood Town FC flag at Poland's summit, hopped over to the Slovakian twin which is a few metres higher before plodding on down to Pod Rysmi.

The Pod Rysmi hut is an absolute gem and I would thoroughly recommend it to anyone. As we arrived the hut keeper was busy strapping a gas cylinder to a wooden frame to be carried back down the mountain. All the stores seem to be transported this way and I have great respect for the staff who make it all possible. The staff at the hut are very friendly and we received a warm welcome. We enjoyed a few beers and a nice soup and goulash before grabbing a place upstairs in the dorm. The WC is a minute away from the hut and is perched over the side of the sloping mountain. Cheerfully painted and with a rocking bench for awaiting punters, the shack is tied down to prevent it taking off in high winds. It has a double glazed window for users to enjoy what must be one of the best views from a toilet seat in the world. :-) Just don't look over the drop as it is a sight for sore eyes. Once the goods are deposited down the toilet there is a sudden draught from below to signify that the solids have passed through the baffles and reached their destination. Afterwards a more pleasurable stroll can be enjoyed back to the hut safe in the knowledge that it will be a while before the trip has to be carried out again.
There was a lovely Czech family who were also staying at the hut. They had walked up from the Slovakian side and the children were around 5/6 years of age. After supper, the hut keeper sat them all down at a table and told them stories that had them entranced. The paraffin lights on each table added to the atmosphere. The first story was about his encounter with a big brown bear. An enjoyable evening was had by all.
The only problem we had was with a German gentleman who slept next to us who insisted on keeping the Velux window wide open. We named him the ventilation control freak. A control freak with a nice warm sleeping bag to curl up in. His female partner took station further down the dormitory next to the other window and did the same. Before he dropped off to sleep he gave me a firm double poke in the arm to inform me I had been snoring. Ten minutes later he well away and blissfully unaware that he could rattle a few out himself. Overnight we had quite a storm. Strong winds and rain which lifted and rattled the polystyrene sheeting in the roof space around our heads. even so, I was quite surprised to see that the window was firmly shut by sunrise. can't be bad..!! :-)

Day 3: This was dictated by the overnight weather. I awoke listening to the wind and rain and considered the options. Either crack on into Slovakia and work our way through the various valleys back up the the Polish border closer to the cablecar at Kasprowy Wierch or head back over Rsys to Morskie Oko and down the valley to catch a bus back to Zakopane. We decided to do the latter and were fortunate enough for the weather to ease throughout the morning. The waterproofs were packed away on descent to Morskie Oko and we arrived to enjoy a nice cool beer before swimming against the tide of tourists making their way up the valley that morning. Some chose to walk, some chose to travel up on the horse and carts. We eventually reached the car park and travelled back to Zakopane where we stopped overnight at the Stara Polona Hostel.(Great staff)

The next day we spent the night in another good hostel in the Jewish Quarter of Krakow. The Secret Garden. A nice clean and friendly hostel and one which I would be keen to use again in the future. We then packed up and shipped out back to the UK courtesy of Easyjet.

A good time was had by all. The cycling was great too..!!

Now then, Beata.... Was that alright for you? :-D

Thanks to everyone for the advice that contributed to a great few days in the Tatras. Much appreciated.

Such a nice story.We were with our all the time screaming children. I let them go slower wiht my wife (hahahaha) on one day trip to Rozotka -Piec Stawow-me also Swistowka -Morskie Oko last Sunday.
I looked around two crazy British but no success with that (hahaha).
I' m leaving towards Estonia (kayaks) or Bulgaria (some mountains on the way) at the moment.The distance is similar and the level of adventure as well.The choice is between heat or rain.

I would have bought you a pint of Poland's finest ale if we'd have met, Maciek. :-)

Have a good time in the sunshine.

Coddy, you've made my day! You're a born storyteller and I've relished every detail of your account :) I loved that bit about a toilet with a view and that German fresh air fanatic, it's hilarious!
Chata pod Rysami - I remember some stories about it and the toilet, and the guy carrying supplies on his back. I've actually got a picture of him with the frame you mentioned - one of the guys I met last year in 5 Stawow had been on Rysy the day before and sent me a few nice pictures from that hike. God, I'm hoping to see it all myself this year. I'm just a little woried about the weather ... and the shoes. I've put my brand new Meindls (Jersey Lady Pro) on the internet for sale. Size 5 and 1/2, too small for me, anyone interested? :)
And seriously, do you blog, or have any external pages? I'd love to read more stories like the one above. Oh, I loved your first 'tip' here on your VT page, patiently waiting for more :)

I'm glad you enjoyed the read, Beata. You'll have to try stopping over at Pod Rysami. You'll love it. The goulash is nice. One thing I found out about the huts is that if you don't pay in advance then you need to arrive early to get a bed.Not always possible.

I'm working on setting up a blog for my trips so if you want I'll let you know when it's up and running. I currently administer a forum for my home town football club. (Fleetwood Town) I posted up a cycling trip thread about my journey from Fleetwood to Whitby to watch my team if you are interested.

http://thecodarmy.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3012

Hope you enjoy your time in the Tatras. I wish I was back there.

Great news about the blog and I'll check out your cycling tour soon but now I need some sleep. I've just come back from the Tatras, managed to do both Orla Perc and Rysy -on consecutive days! - plus some minor trails and peaks. The weather was great except for a little storm that caught us right below Rysy peak - on the way back from Chata pod Rysami :) I had a fantastic time and already miss the mountains. I'm going to write more about it but now - bed!

Good effort, Beata.

Nice to read that you enjoyed the experience. It will be interesting to read your views on the Orla Perc and the Pod Rysami hut.

You can read all about it on my Tatrzanski Park Narodowy page in Travelogue, here's the address: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/tt/a299f/#TL
I'm working on some tips, but it's going to take some time as I'm rather busy now.
BTW I read your account of the cycling trip, that was something! Let me know when you set up a blog.
Cheers