Milford Sound Travel Forum

I have a friend who wants to walk the Milford Track, carrying her own pack. She has asked me my opinion, and I wasn't very encouraging. I have never done the Milford, but, I have done a fair amount of tramping, and would have thought you would need to be in pretty good shape to enjoy this tramp. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Well I wasn't exactly very fit when I did this track. The days are long and a lot of walking. But if you just plod you get there. I carried a pack, and made sure I got early starts, so I had many hours to get to the next hut. Earlier you start you can have several breaks, worked for me.
The day your cross the McKinnon Pass, the walk isn't as bad as one may think as the track zigzags up the steep part so isn't too bad. I found, however, that the hardest part of the track was the subsequent descent to the valley. I guess this used muscles I hadn't used before and my legs really hurt going down and by the time I got down they were like jelly and I had virtually lost control of them. I couldn't make the side trek to the Sutherland Falls as a result.
But the sooner you get out walking and maybe treadmill work the better. STepping helps too.

The track is not difficult, but you need stamina. Especially the last day is considered really tiring as it is so long. Just practice walking with a full backpack for at least 10 km up and down hills. That would be a good indication, if you would be fit enough.
I know of people, who were only moderately fit, who have done the track, but without the backpack, carrying only a day-pack. They found it was possible but fairly tough. Those people were really inexperienced, and went in a group for those, who get the better facilities, and whose backpacks are transported for them. Not having to carry a heavy pack makes a big difference.

Yes don't have a pack too big. I have since bought one of those feather sleeping bags that fold up very very micro small, and very light. But ok for cold nights. Great investment. Keep your gear to a minimum, especially don't take stupid stuff like hair shampoo. There are a LOT of hours in the day, so you can make it over time. There's no problem with being first out and last in - that was me every day!! But I got much better photos and more photos than the speedsters. I used the photo opportunities as a rest and that worked very well. I had to also tolerate the others all passing me, and not feel bad. But after the walk was finished, everyone wanted copies of my photos. I felt like saying NO cos they didn't save me a low bunk at night hahahaha.

We did Milford earlier this year and it was absolutely fantastic. A lot depends on the weather though. The people who left the day before us had to wade across swollen river on their second day and then get to the hut while very wet, the next day they had to crawl along the ridge at the top of the pass so that they didn't get blown off. We on the other hand had fantastic weather and incredible views.

There are a few options for your friend. You can go the easy way and pay a lot and just carry a day pack. You can take everything yourself, arrange your own transport, cook all your meals etc or you can do what we did.

We joined the Milton Rotary Tramping Club which do a number of treks each year. You still have to carry all your gear but they buy the food and split it up between each person, they organised the fees for the track and the transport there and back. At the end of each day they organised the cooking and cleaning and because their leaders had done the track before they had lots of great information. I would highly recommend this method of doing the track because you do it the hard way but also have support.

Everyone was a stranger when we started but we made some wonderful friends.

At the end of the track they had arranged an overnight crise on Milford Sound which was fantastic.

You can email peter.vollweiler@xtra.co.nz for further information.

Hope this helps

THe important thing is to have really good gear for the worst conditions. It's just not reliable enough in Fiordland to know what the weather will do.
There's nothing worse than being cold on day 2 and still having 2 days to go.

I just did it at the end of this last year, 2006. I'd agree with what everyone's said here, especially about staying warm and dry. I got wet on day one; fortunately had dry clothes, so the last three days weren't bad. However, others weren't so lucky. Since then, I've been reading this blog about the track; be warned; really detailed, but good information altogether for you if you want it. I'll post the URL here.

http://www.lastadventurer.com/last-adventurers-firering/2006/11/14/the-freewalkers-guide-to-the-milford-track-the-prequel-the-walk-of-a-lifetime.html

The secret of these walks is to have waterproof jacket and leggings so your clothes don't get too wet. I am only too aware that in very bad conditions they can get wet but with the right gear, you can avoid this. Milford can deal up raging rivers where you are up to your waist in water, or deep snow. Not nice.
Also to wear the kind of thermals that dry quickly, such as polypropolene. IF you buy Merino wool thermals, they can be wet and still keep you warm. The modern versions dry quicker than the old types.

Is that blog yours worldhiker? AT the bottom is says it's a work of fiction?

I have just finished the track and while it was the hardest thing i have done it was easier than i expected. it is not easy if you aren't fit. I'm not. I am significantly overweight but I put in a lot of work over the last six months with a personal trainer and doing day tramps in similar conditions with the pack. This was very necessary. My longest day i was walking for 10 1/2 hours and you did get to the hut exhausted.

My recommendation is that if I can do it anyone can but don't go in without doing some sort of work towards it. I would not have made it without a good six months of focussed training. I loved the whole experience and do not regret it even though coming up to the time we left I was wondering if I was being stupid.

we also were very lucky in that we had sunny weather every day - definitely not the usual state for Fiordland. It would have been much harder in the rain or bad conditions.

the track does have some very rough patches, and there is a bit of scrambling over rocks but because it is so popular it is also really well maintained. you are walkign at the same time as the guided walkers so there is often an official guide in the vicinity if things get really precarious.