Gansu Sheng Travel Forum

Trying to decide whether to include Dunhuang in China itinerary mid-April. I’ve read several reports by tourists of churlish treatment, individual travellers forced to wait until a group forms up, limited access to the caves, poor viewing conditions, etc. Has anyone been lately who could advise? I’m wondering, too, about the merits of other caves nearby, e.g. Yulin, Western Thousand Buddhas, etc.,. Maybe conditions are better there?

Ellyse has been there recently. You can see her current update at Lonely Planet Thorn Tree's Northeast Asia branch. She is also a VT member who frequents the China travel forum, so if you wait a day or two I think she might reply here to your specific question.

It's definitely worth the trip. Being patient and accommodating goes a long way in China. If you come and expect to be treated like an emperor, don't bother coming.
What do you deem "poor viewing conditions" and "limited access to the caves"? The Dunhuang grottoes have been so well-preserved till now due to the lack of human activity in the vicinity and also because of the dry desert climate. The absence of light is important in preserving the colours of the murals in the caves. Caves are only allowed to be viewed as part of a guided tour; the tour guide can also keep an eye on the tourists to prevent them from drawing graffiti in the caves, touching the murals and other mischief. Waiting till a bigger group forms up makes sense; they don't have manpower to allow each and every tourist to have a personal guide. If you want a more personal experience, I suggest that you go during the off-peak season instead, which is what we did. If all this contributes to "poor viewing conditions" and "limited access to the caves", I think I can very well understand the reasoning behind it! That's hardly reason for the grumbling on the part of travellers.
The Yulin and Western Thousand Buddha caves are not so prominent and also less well-preserved.
My Dunhuang travel tips on VT are up already, and my Dunhuang update on LonelyPlanet ThornTree North-East Asia branch is at http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/messagepost.cfm?postaction=reply&catid=19&threadid=1042627&messid=8919427&STARTPAGE=1&parentid=0 or do a search if you can't open that link.

I went there in October which is National Day holiday in China and therefore high season. I moved from cave to cave at my own pace and nobody stopped me once or didn't have to wait for any group. I was treated very well by everybody and didn't have any kind of problem.
You can't take pictures as they would damage the frescoes and not all the caves are open ot the public, but IMO it was worth it because there is a lot to see around like the Minsha dunes, the Yadan Geological Park and the Yunmen pass on the Silk Road.

I was there last year. Dunhuang is a fine visit for all it's aspects and particularly for Mogao Caves, the best collection of insitu Buddhist art in the world so don't miss your chance. Try some Gansu wine while you are there. Possibly the best wine making area in China.