I hate asking stupid questions like this, but here it is - Is Genoa really a "dangerous" city, as Italian cities go? From the folks at Frommers: "A Genoa Warning - Even locals are wary of back streets in the Old City, especially after dark and on mid-afternoons and Sundays, when shops are closed and streets tend to be deserted. Purse snatching, jewelry theft, and armed robberies are all too common. Also, count your change here: The shenanigans by shopkeepers and waiters are second in infamy only to Rome's." A particularly scary 2009 post on VirtualTourist: "I lived in Genoa for 6 months on a yacht that was being refitted in Amico yard. There were 8 yachts where the crews were friendly - a total of about 50 crew members all from Aus, NZ, SA, Brits and all very smart travellers (we do it for a living!) and after 4 months, 17 of the group had been either mugged (consciously or not), beaten up (one guy lost his sight in one eye), followed, threatened (just for passing through an alley) or raped (2 girls). I can honestly say that nobody incited anything......it is just that at night time, the old town esp. Porto Antico, tourists are not welcome and certain locals of a certain origin seem to take offence to you breathing!!! During the day is absolutely fine though." Now do you see why I ask? (: I am a travel photographer and love architectural photography in particular; thus the burning desire to stay in and explore Genova. I've stayed before in Camogli, but would prefer to use Genova as a homebase for this trip. I want to explore the city and also use it as a base for day trips all over the region; not just to pretty Camogli, Cinque Terre, etc. Also north of Genova and on the so-called Riviera Della Palme. I'm hoping to stay at il Borgo di Genova (a two-minute walk to/from the Genova Brignole train station), which has fantastic TripAdvisor reviews. Your thoughts?
Hmmmn, I haven't been there in a very long time, so I don't know...I see that on VT, one of the warnings (not this one) was written by an Italian living in Genova, carletto76 (members.virtualtourist.com/m... sending him an email directly, it looks like he's fairly active... Bill
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Thanks. I just took your advice and emailed him. That said, if anyone else would like to chime in with their own opinion or experiences, I am listening.
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Like Bill, it has been quite some time since I frequented Genoa but I am inclined to think that it matters more the time of day and the areas to avoid at night. Genoa used to be a frequent stop for the cruise ships I worked back in the day, and I do remember even back then that crew members used to get in fights and get "rolled", in the more seedy areas, and around the harbor region. Note the comments on the people manning the boats. When you live on a boat, you are going to be moving through harbor region, and at night, not just in Genoa, but in many many other cities. Harbor areas just have that reputation almost anywhere in the world. That is not to say that it is going to be any worse than most other cities, anywhere. If you look at the "Warnings & Dangers" tips on just about any city, you will find similar stuff. Common precautions should prevail. Don't lug camera equipment in the less lit areas at night, have your wits about you, dress down, remember that the fly cannot see the spiderweb at night, - and you should be fine.
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the last time i was in genoa was for three days or so in 2006 one night it hapened to be Bloomsday that started at 8 and ended at midnight in the old quarter - i was moving around the quarter lat at night and didn't have a moment's worry - mind you i did meet up with some local friends that night it was crowded and lively with very straight looking people - if i had glanced in and it was rather deserted etc i might not have ventured in
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Brignole station is not really the port-aerea that you are talking about, it is rather the main station of Genova that is close to the port and the old part of town. Brignole would be better for you, at least a bit ! Like Erik I came several times to Genua while I was working on cruiseships and never had a problem there myself, maybe because I was careful, maybe because I am quite tall etc. although I have been to many of the seedy sidestreets. With professional equipment I would still not walk around there, but thats the same all over Italy & other parts of Europe. Something that I remember back in 1980 or so: a man walking along the street with a really large and heavy ring, where he had maybe 50 different carkeys, trying them out on different cars on the mainstreet with heavy trafic passing by and he did not do on the trottoir-side but was standing in the street-side of the car while doing it. A policecar passed by without even looking at him and also no pedestrian tried to stop him. --- Such professional thieves know exactely whether you are worth to attack or not and from my fellow crewmembers I also remember they were sometimes drunk or simply showed around their Rolex etc. in the wrong places. On the total I think that this area is a lot better now than it was 25 years ago !
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Yes, things changed a lot in the last 20 years, that's sure. I don't live in Genova anymore but I'm there a couple of weekends every month, I grew up there (quite close to the Brignole station) and I know how to move around the old town quite well. So I'd really not say that Genova is a dangerous city. The area around Brignole station is rather safe, but of course at night at the station you will find not the best examples of people: homeless, drunk people, drug addicts and the worst ones: taxi drivers! ;) But you don't need to get into the station. The only negative side of the B&B you found is that it's on the other side of the railway tracks respect to the centre, so you have to walk through a tunnel (there are 2, one for pedestians and one for cars+pedestrians). The pedestrian tunnel should be closed at night (it will be the entrance of the Metro station when they will finally open it), so take the one with cars, it's safer. The Porto Antico zone is touristic and safe also at night. Around the harbour, but almost everywhere in Genova too, you will find a lot of Ecuadorenian/Peruvian people. There are always some drunk ones around the Commenda and there are some gangs which like to use knives. Just be careful, like in every big city in the world. Also don't go to Sampierdarena district at night, that could be dangerous. In the old town there's plenty of dark alleys. I think there's really no problem by day, while at night just be careful and try not to go in the deserted ones. On weekends the old town is very lively, but there are always some lonely little side streets. In more than 30 years living in Genova, and I love the Old Town, I always go there, I've never had any problem. And I often go around with my camera (which is rather big and expensive) also after sunset, just not alone. Get in contact with some local people, that will be the best thing you can do, and not only for safety. But really don't get worried too much. Tourist guides often write tragic things about Italian towns and maybe it's good they do it, so you take care. Bad things happen everywhere, I don't really think Genova is more dangerous than any other Italian city. Go and enjoy this great place! ;) Carlo
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